Tenuta di Capezzana, “Villa di Capezzana” Carmignano DOCG 2010 (about $26)
Italian Wine for march, 2017
Carmignano wines are produced from grapes grown in and around the villages of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano that lie about 13 miles due west of Florence. The Carmignano viticultural area is one of smallest appellations in Tuscany and output is subsequently small. Although Carmignano wines have a centuries-old royal pedigree it is fair to say that it probably is one of the least recognized wine names and DOCG-certified appellations in Tuscany and probably Italy in general. But these enjoyable wines can – and should - attract more popular attention than they do.
Carmignano wines are dry, robust, Sangiovese-based red wines. The DOCG regulations specify that Sangiovese must comprise at least 50 percent of the total blend with a mandatory addition of 10 to 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc and potential splash amounts of various other grape varieties. Carmignano wines can be similar to other Sangiovese-based Tuscan wines like those produced in the close-by Chianti appellations but the mandatory dose of Cabernet will differentiate Carmignano from many Chianti and other Sangiovese-based wines.
The Capezzana winery has deep roots, so to speak, in Tuscany. The estate’s website indicates that they’ve been producing Tuscan wines in the Carmignano region since 804 AD and some buildings and cellars on their property date back to the 1400’s. The owners of Tenuta di Capezzana were influential voices in the decision to upgrade the Carmignano appellation from DOC to DOCG status in 1990.
Capezzana started implementing organic farming practices in 2009 and the estate’s wine and olive oil operations today are certified organic.
Capezzana’s 2010 “Villa di Capezzana” Carmignano consists of 80 percent Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon for the remaining 20 percent. The wine is fermented in large French oak vats and aged in a combination of large oak vats and small French oak barriques for about 15 months. The wine ages for an additional year in the bottle prior to release for sale and checks in with 14.5 percent alcohol.
The wine has a deep and dark color that borders on black with a violet edge. A gentle swishing of the glass releases intoxicating dark cherry and kitchen spice aromas. It has good texture and body with ample dark fruit and wild berry flavors supported by moderate acidity and soft tannins interlaced with a fine thread of sweetness due to the wood ageing. It has a long and persistent finish highlighted by some intriguing spice notes.
Capezzana produces several Carmignano-based wines that have fairly good distribution in the U.S. Their wines in general, and the “Villa di Capazzana” Carmignano in particular, are well worth searching out on wine shop shelves.
March 7, 2017
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